The history of the Ottoman Empire, which ruled over three continents for more than 600 years, is full of mysteries. One of these mysteries is talismanic shirts. These shirts show the high level reached in the art of calligraphy and illumination with the writings and ornaments on them. At the same time, they reflect the social life of the period, and they almost have the quality of a speaking history. The talismanic shirts worn by the Ottoman sultans are decorated with verses, hadiths and symbols. The production of these shirts would be completed in three or four years. However, the secret of the shirts is still not solved. Experts believe that the codes on the shirts can shed light on Ottoman history.
There were letters and numbers on the talismanic shirts that the Ottoman sultans wore to gain victory in the war, to protect from the evil eye and to find health. The secrets of these shirts are not the only unsolved codes, but also how the fabrics were woven with 8,000 warp threads. The code and weaving technique of the shirts is important not only for the satisfaction of curiosity, but also for the discovery of the golden ratio used in Turkish textiles. The fabrics were usually brought from Denizli and woven from high quality cotton. The fabrics used for the talismanic shirts were made suitable for writing by the sizing method used by calligraphers to refine the paper, and were processed in the muralist’s workshop.
Features of Charm Shirts
There are approximately 90 talismanic sultan’s clothes in Topkapı Palace. These clothes were started to be sewn on a special day determined by the Magi by looking at the stars, at the time known as “Ashraf Time” among the people. Hodjas determine the talismans to be embroidered on the clothing. These talismans usually consisted of prayers and figures and figures whose meanings still cannot be fully deciphered. The talismans to be embroidered on the sultan’s attire were written by the most valuable calligraphers of the period.
The talismanic clothes in Topkapı Palace were generally prepared for three important reasons. The first of these is the war talisman. The sultans wore clothes embroidered with special prayers to wear when going to war, so they could be protected from accidents. Tailors also designed clothes adorned with different prayers and symbols against diseases and the evil eye. It is also thought that some of the special prayers on these garments may also be powerful prayers that can be used to heal diseases.
Talismanic outfits are usually made of specially woven fabrics such as calico. Only 2 of the 90 talismanic outfits are different. One is made of satin and the other is made of silk. The reason for using calico was that it could be written on and these inscriptions were permanent. The muralists embroidered with prayers and symbols determined by covering these calico clothes with a thin and slippery layer. These enchanted clothes were never washed. Because when they were washed, the prayers and symbols on them were erased.
In addition to the papers trained by the calligraphers, the fabrics used in the muralists’ workshop were also processed with the same method. These fabrics were carefully prepared as a result of long efforts and used to make valuable clothes such as shirts. It was a job that required great dedication for calligraphers to work on a shirt for a long period of 3-4 years. However, most of these works were carried out by anonymous heroes. Because it doesn’t say who made it on the shirts. Therefore, the identities of the masters behind the historical weavings have remained a mystery. The sultan’s clothes in the palace collection were prepared between the 15th and 20th centuries.
What Is Written On The Charms Shirts
55 suras have been identified on talismanic clothes so far. The most written surah on these clothes is Surah Fatiha. Because this surah is generally read for blessings and healing wishes. Surah Yasin, on the other hand, is the most important of the prayers against diseases and was usually embroidered on the clothes of the sultans on their deathbed. The Surah of Conquest would definitely take place on the clothes of the sultans who would go to war. Because this surah is read to win. In addition to the suras, there are many verses and each of these verses has a special meaning.
Ayet-el Kürsi was frequently used especially in war clothes. Felak and Nas suras were mostly used in mental illnesses. The names of angels in the clothes are known as Mikail, Azrâil, Gabriel and Israfil. The basmala is a striking part of the writing on the clothes and forms a square with its writing style. Esma-ül Hüsna, i.e. 99 names of Allah, were also used in talismanic clothes. One of the purposes of embroidering these names on clothes is to ensure that the sultans are strong and protected. In addition, Arabic letters and geometric shapes were also used in some clothes.
One of the most important symbols on the shirts is Hz. They are symbols of Muhammad (saas). Some of the sultan’s clothes, Hz. The footprint of Muhammad (pbuh) is engraved. The most popular symbol is the Seal of Prophethood. This seal was often framed and gilded to emphasize its importance. Hz. While this seal of Muhammad (saas) was embroidered on the right corner of the shirt, the words of the prophets and the names and tags of the Companions were engraved on the chest.
Seal of SolomonIt is one of the symbols preferred by the sultans. This symbol is in the form of a star. It symbolizes Solomon’s ability to understand the language of animals. The talismanic collar, on the other hand, is the collar of the caftan worn when the sultan distributes cülûs. The collar of these caftans, which were made using precious fabrics, was surrounded by fur and it was believed to have protective properties against the evil eye. Cem Sultan’s famous talismanic outfit was completed in exactly three years. This outfit is completely covered with prayers and symbols and has never been worn. Historians estimate that this dress could not be delivered to Cem Sultan.
Another talisman frequently used among the clothes worn by the sultans is Kaside-i Bürde. The power of this eulogy is believed to be so effective that it can be used in the recovery of paralyzed patients. The author of the eulogy is Egyptian Şerafeddin Muhammed Busiri. He himself has a stroke one day and is unable to move half of his body. In this case, Şerafeddin Muhammed Busiri wrote this eulogy and asked Allah for healing for the sake of the Prophet. On the night he completes the ode, he sees İlm-i Ledün Sultan in his dream and reads his ode in his presence. When he wakes up in the morning, he realizes that his paralysis has passed and he can use his hands and feet again.
There are arrow and bow symbols on the shirts. These symbols have played an important role in hunting and warfare since the Central Asian Turkish tribes. Turks used bow and arrow to hit targets at long distances, and swords at close range. In the early years of Islam, Hz. The fact that Muhammad (pbuh) cared so much about the bow and arrow caused these weapons to have a religious significance. The other two motifs that are frequently used on the talismanic shirts are Hz. Ali’s forked sword ‘Zülfikar’ and other Islamic symbols.
The talismanic shirts worn by the sultans were popular not only in the palace but also among the people. There were also shirts prepared to protect from jaundice or scorpion stings in the cult dervish lodges of the period. There were also talismanic shirts designed to make women’s wives look cute.
